Bergen: The republic where rain builds character

Welcome to Bergen – probably the only place in the world where patriotism comes equipped with an umbrella. Tucked between seven mountains, this isn’t just a UNESCO showstopper, but a way of life, best understood through its own people: the Bergenser.

Ask any Bergenser and they’ll tell you, without flinching “Bergen is the best city in the
world”. You see, historically, Bergen was once the capital of Norway, and while the crown may have moved on, the attitude didn’t. The locals will jokingly call their hometown “The Republic”, as if the rest of the country is just an afterthought.

The Bergenser is in fact a full-blown personality. And don’t worry, you’ll hear them from far away with a characteristic dialect in full swing. It’s fast, melodic, and sprinkled with words that sound French – simply because in Bergen they have the infamous skarre-R (French "R") and their expressions are so local even fellow Norwegians need subtitles.

Loyalty, Bergen style

But don’t confuse the bravado for blind optimism. Bergensers are self-aware in the way only seasoned underdogs can be, and when it comes to football, Brann isn’t just a club, it’s a team that has mastered the fine art of being gloriously underwhelming. Their trophy cabinet is far more character-building than impressive, to put it that way.

But here’s the thing: even when Brann doesn’t play well, it’s still the world’s best team – at least in the heart of the Bergenser. That fierce loyalty doesn’t stop at the city limits either. Brann is, in fact, the only Norwegian football club with an official fanbase in the U.S., the wonderfully devoted Brann.US, who gather religiously at Legends Bar on Manhattan to cheer, commiserate, and carry on the tradition of believing against all odds.

UNESCO or not, here I come

Bryggen is the historic heart and pride of Bergen.

It’s easier to see where the Bergenser’s pride stems from when it comes to the historic heart of the city – just take one look at Bryggen. This row of colourful, timbered houses has been flaunting its medieval charm since the days when stockfish (dried cod) from Northern Norway was traded for European grains. UNESCO slapped its World Heritage badge on it in 1979, and let’s just say that Bergen’s ego hasn’t shrunk since.

And just around the corner? The legendary Fish Market (Fisketorget) which is not your average soggy fish-counter. Here, the sharp-tongued vendors are equal parts fishmonger and stand-up comedian, serving up delicious seafood with a wink. Go ahead, strike up a chat while you attempt to conquer a shrimp sandwich so tall it might just need scaffolding.

Where the beat never dies

Edvard Grieg of course has his own statue centrally located in Bergen.

When the rain starts its usual tap dance on the windows – which it will – the Bergenser
doesn’t sulk, he simply shifts gears. The city cozies up inside its cafés, record stores, and concert venues, where the soundtrack is always on point. After all, this coastal charmer has an impressive track record of exporting music to the world – from indie darlings Kings of Convenience to dancefloor dominators Kygo and Alan Walker.

And let’s not forget the original hometown hero, Edvard Grieg, the classical maestro who composed his way into music history long before playlists and streaming were even a twinkle in the universe. If you want to dive deeper into Grieg's legacy and discover the stories behind his most beloved compositions, there are fascinating insights waiting to be explored. Around here, live music isn’t just entertainment, it’s more like a local life hack, sure to make you forget about the rain.

It's a feeling

So, why do people fall for Bergen? Because this city doesn’t try to sell you a Norwegian fairytale. It’s proud, self-mocking, and endlessly charming. And once you’ve learned to see the beauty behind the rain, you’ll understand what the Bergensers have known all along: Bergen isn’t just a place, it’s a feeling.